一个乖戾的托斯卡纳取

Posted by|张贴在Commentary|Posted on 05-21-2013

从达芬奇博物馆芬奇,托斯卡纳的视图。来自维基。

While living on either end of Tuscany — first to its immediate north in Bologna, and then just south in Rome — I found myself becoming increasingly anti-Tuscan.

我开玩笑说,在佛罗伦萨寻找佛罗伦萨的困难,我转了转眼睛的朋友的故事有关访问‘最可爱的托斯卡纳山城!’

我内置的理由去这样的:基安蒂?当地的,更便宜的桑娇维塞适合我就好了。艺术?为什么旅游看大卫的时候,我可以步行到圣母怜子?餐饮?不要让我开始托斯卡纳面包。

Now that I’ve disclosed my irrational prejudice against all things Tuscan, let’s talk Tuscan wine.

意大利有一些标志性的葡萄酒 - 想巴罗洛,马罗内,灰皮诺 - 但也许是最具代表性的是为基安蒂。刚提的烛光晚餐的意大利面条,方格桌布,和胡子服务员唱“” O独家Mio.”的话让人想起图像

Chianti likely became so famous because of its accessibility — it’s known for being affordable and easy-drinking, and it’s relatively easy to find. Its reputation has alternately peaked and plunged over the years. Today, Chianti’s wines can largely be divided into two categories: expensive, high-end bottlings that are often over-extracted and oaky, and cheap, insipid, mass-produced wine.

Admittedly, a few producers are still making terrific Chianti at a good price (e.g. Fontodi, Felsina, Monte Rotondo, and Querciabella), but they are relatively hard to find. I have had so many “blah” experiences with random Chianti bottles that I’ve mostly given it up.

As much as I’d love to use this as an excuse to write off Tuscan wines altogether, I’ll grudgingly admit that Tuscany’s terroir seems to be well-suited to making good wine. So I decided to search for a Chianti alternative.

The best-known Tuscan DOCG wines (Denominazione d’Origine Controllata e Garantita, the top tier of Italian wine certifications) — Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Chianti Classico — are all made primarily with the Sangiovese grape, and showcase Sangiovese’s elegance and versatility. These wines are often good, even great, but the best are very expensive.

如果桑娇维赛的关键是伟大的托斯卡纳葡萄酒,为什么不看看超出了著名的产区在一个更好的价格找到它?Morellino迪斯坎萨诺 - 也是一个基于桑娇维塞托斯卡纳红葡萄酒 - 符合该法案。它来自于马雷玛,锡耶纳的区域南临伊特鲁里亚海岸,关于罗马和佛罗伦萨之间的中途。该区域将为这些售价通常$ 15- $ 25之间新鲜,方便的葡萄酒。

不多Morellino使得美国,但我已经尝试过的场合,我一直印象深刻。随着我的兴趣激发了,我对有机会参加最近Morellino在DC品尝跃升,由CONSORZIO监护权Morellino迪斯坎萨诺和Vigneto的通信共同主办。

全线的Morellinos很简单,但制作精良,具有万吨鲜红的果实是典型马雷玛桑娇维塞的。一些酿酒师使用了太多的橡木(合我的口味),但即使是oakier葡萄酒是最好许多基安蒂红我已经在自己的价格范围内。这些Sangioveses意味着是喝醉了年轻的;享受葡萄酒,而老化的布鲁内洛。

Poggio Nibbiale "Tommaso"

My favorite wine of the night was made by Elke and Nikolaus Buchheim at Poggio Nibbiale. Their son was pouring, and he gave me a brief rundown of the estate: his German parents bought the land in 1998, and now have 11 hectares of vines, mostly Sangiovese. They practice organic viticulture (but are not certified) and rely on spontaneous fermentation by ambient yeasts. Only one of their wines was available to taste, the 2008 “Tommaso” Morellino di Scansano Riserva DOCG, which was surprisingly fresh and juicy considering its eighteen months of barrel age. Red berries, cedar, tobacco and cherries dominated the palate. I’m a convert.

Another highlight was Poggio Argentiera. They are one of a handful of wineries who use the grape Ciliegiolo in their Morellino blends, which adds a burst of cherry to the Sangiovese. Of their two Morellinos on offer, I preferred the 2012 “Bellamarsilia” DOCG, which is 85% Sangiovese and 15% Ciliegiolo. It showed pure red fruit and had a backbone of dusty tannins, and would be perfect with some Tuscan salami and pecorino cheese. The second wine was their 2010 “Capatosta” DOCG, which has 5% Alicante in the blend. The addition of the Alicante, along with a longer oak regimen, made for a much darker and stiffer wine than the “Bellamarsilia.” This wine shows potential, but needs time for its tannins to soften and integrate.

泰努塔Pietramora迪Collefagiano “Petramora”

Rounding out my favorite producers was was Tenuta Pietramora di Collefagiano. The estate was bought and replanted by its current owners in 1999, and is certified organic. The wine on offer was their 2010 “Petramora” Morellino di Scansano DOCG, which is 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot. The Merlot (I was skeptical) distinguished this wine by contributing a pleasant meatiness not found in the other Morellinos. It was a big wine at 14.5% alcohol, but the weight was nicely balanced by Sangiovese’s characteristic acidity.

我的外卖?

虽然我的反托斯卡纳的感情还没有完全消失,他们已经明显软化 - 我真的很喜欢这些酒。他们正是我一直在寻找一个替代基安蒂。这些Morellinos很亮,桑娇维塞新鲜的表情,从种植者,生产者,其winesemphasize他们都和风土自己的个人风格。

Morellino di Scansano was granted DOCG status only six years ago. And a recent flood of investment — including purchases by Tuscan heavyweights Banfi and Frescobaldi — means that the region is developing rapidly. As a result, I suspect we will soon see more Morellino in the United States. This is great news for me, since I’m too much of a curmudgeon to enjoy it at the source.

薄酒莱新酒再次来临!

Posted by|张贴在Wine Events|Posted on 11-14-2012

The leaves are falling, the turkeys are fattening, the football game is on TV. This could only mean one thing — it’s almost time for the Beaujolais Nouveau to arrive!

虽然它看起来像逢酒都有自己的庆祝活动,这些天(也许你错过了国际普兰尼洛日上周三上周四),薄酒莱新酒的庆祝活动是无可争议的第一和最大的葡萄酒节日。

Searching the annals of winemaking history, we find that the tradition of making “early wines” (vins primeurs) predates the marketing genius of Georges Duboeuf, and can be traced to ancient times. According to Cato and Pliny, the Romans made a number of early wines, none of which closely approximated Beaujolais Nouveau but are interesting nonetheless. Vinum preliganeum was made from unripe grapes and was intended for workers to drink during the harvest, lors was a cheap wine made by macerating the newly pressed marc (seeds and stems), and slaves drank vinum faecatum, which was made from sediment left over after the grapes were pressed.

With this pedigree, we are fortunate that today’s primeur wines have morphed into something infinitely tastier.

期酒的葡萄酒获得了饱受责难过于简单易上手,但要记住,他们从来就不是很大。如果你能找到他们,期酒的葡萄酒最好6个月发布之内消费。它们相对便宜,而且是为了给消费者和酒商首次窥探到一个老式的潜在质量。它们标志着收获季节的结束,释放他们自然是一个值得庆祝的,他们是由农村的原因。

Early wines are produced everywhere in Europe. Wines of this family are called vins nouveaux in France, vini novelli in Italy, Federweisser and Federroter in Germany, Sturm in Austria, vino joven in Spain, and almost every region within these countries has its own version.

Tomorrow, Thursday, November 15 is the official release day of the most famous primeur wine, Beaujolais Nouveau. Around the world, embassies and bars are hosting parties to celebrate,

但也许你患有混为一谈的脂肪igue. That’s understandable. It has been both a blessing and a curse that George Duboeuf was so successful marketing the wine during the 70s, 80s and 90s. He deserves his own VH1 show. On the one hand, it’s incredible that a wine with such a short lifespan, that was previously very difficult to find outside of Beaujolais, is now available in Tokyo and New York at the same time it is released in Lyon. On the other hand, the already low quality of the wine has been diluted due to mass production, and prices have gone up due to the cost of air freighting the wine around the world.

但是,仅仅因为你不想熬夜到半夜上周三观看你的一百最亲密的朋友的嘴变成紫色,并不意味着你不能与一些早期的葡萄酒品尝丰收的庆典。你的支持乔治Duboef剑圣生病了?寻求替代的生产商。

The two other major negociants of Burgundy, Joseph Drouhin and Louis Jadot, also make Nouveau wines that are available in the U.S., but it’s much more difficult to find Nouveau wines from high-quality small-scale producers. Two remarkable exceptions are Jean Foillard (imported by Kermit Lynch) and Pierre-Marie Chermette of Domaine du Vissoux (imported by Peter Weygandt).

这两个生产商使他们的薄酒莱新酒之后相同的最小干预的理念,他们都在自己的博若莱酒庄的葡萄酒著名使用,并作为一个结果,这些风格的葡萄酒有更多的细微差别和更好的平衡比许多的大众市场的选择。

因此,在本赛季的精神,我鼓励你给的期酒葡萄酒再试一次。他们有丰富的历史和现在有美国的市场比以往任何时候都可用的更高质量的选项。不要期望太多,记住,这是最愉快的方式来庆祝酒的缘故葡萄酒之一。

Meet Virginia

Posted by|张贴在1188betasia |Posted on 07-05-2012

The 2012 Gold Medal Lineup

住在华盛顿特区,我听到很多阿布交谈t Virginia wine. Generally, people have positive things to say about their visits to Virginia wine country, if not always about the wines themselves. I’ve attended a few Virginia wine festivals and visited some vineyards myself. It has always been a fun experience, but the wines are rarely memorable.

所以,我当我经过的整个阵容提供的机会,味道很兴奋2012弗吉尼亚州州长杯金奖殊荣的葡萄酒- 弗吉尼亚百里挑一。自1982年以来的比赛也几乎每年都发生,而今年弗吉尼亚州州长鲍勃·麦克唐纳公布一些增强功能,旨在“使美国最严格和彻底的葡萄酒赛事之一。”

Judging was led by DC’s only Master of Wine,Jay Youmans, and he recruited a number of other well-qualified colleagues to join his team. Although I was a little concerned that some top-tier vineyards — including Barboursville, Linden, and RdV — were absent from the winner’s circle, I decided the judges must have identified some good up-and-coming wineries to tout instead.

两个周六前,一组品酒师聚集在品尝韦安特葡萄酒。我们的十二谁开始的,只有三个管理在整个金牌殊荣的阵容奋斗。我们的舌头是紫色。我们的味蕾都死了。我们都筋疲力尽。阅读这个条目剩下»

Obelisk: A Monumental Wine List

Posted by|张贴在Grape Adventures|Posted on 05-16-2012

Uploaded to Flikr by Corey L. Kliewer

Last week, I was treated to dinner at one of DC’s few hidden gems, Obelisk in Dupont Circle. I’d heard many positive reviews, but I was nonetheless surprised to discover that Obelisk is, in fact, a “true” Italian restaurant — with fresh, top-quality ingredients and well-executed, simple preparations. But I won’t start blubbering about the best burrata I’ve tasted in the United States — this is a wine blog.

相反,我要尊崇方尖碑的酒单的优点。这是短。这是手写的。这是所有意大利人。让我印象深刻。

我相信,放在一起令人兴奋的葡萄酒的艺术还没有完全在DC流行起来。是,CityZen酒店,CITRONELLE,Proof,Bourbon Steak, andBlue Duck Tavernall have venerable, deep wine programs. For the sake of simplicity, let’s call those “first generation” wine lists.

Restaurants likeRippleand迪诺have exploratory, expansive lists, which are rooted in the classics but tend to venture away from Napa, Bordeaux and Tuscany. These are our “second generation” lists. And while I’m surely excluding other excellent wine lists around the District, my point is that there are only a handful of noteworthy examples, and they tend to fall into one of these two categories.

方尖碑的酒单是不同的生物完全。虽然CITRONELLE的名单是经典的,全面的,方尖碑的列表发人深省,紧紧地策划和排外。这是赫塞豪恩艺术的CITRONELLE的国家美术馆。让我们把它叫做第三代酒单。

我们在方尖碑只喝了两瓶,但他们坐在传统到尤伯杯髋光谱的两端。首先是2009年Coenobium Rusticumfrom Monastero Suore Cistercensi, an “orange” wine from Lazio that is a blend of Trebbiano, Verdicchio, Malvasia and Grechetto. It was appropriately served to us at cellar temperature. It was more golden than orange, but the extended skin contact during fermentation and slight oxidization gave it a structure you rarely see in whites.

周围的一些城市提供一个或两个“橙色”葡萄酒更冒险的酒单,但方尖碑有他们的白人和玫瑰之间一整节被称为“白人取得像红人”。

The second bottle was a twist on a classic: a2008 Fratelli Brovia Nebbiolo d’Albafrom the region of Piedmont. It was tannic but approachable and somewhat fruit-forward for a Nebbiolo, with great acidity. And although this wine is made with a typical grape from a well-known producer, it is unusual to see a Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC in the United States — a rare treat.

These wines typify the best aspects of a third generation wine list. These lists boast wines chosen to complement the venue’s food, with an eye to impressing the savvy customer. The wines are often challenging, but they’re delicious and relatively affordable. It is the kind of list that persuades the diner to interact with the sommelier, and hopefully learn something new.

这是令人失望的,有更多的这类酒单的环城没有。DC是一些最有名的啤酒名单,并在全国前卫的调酒师的 - 希望这只是一个时间问题,直到城市拥抱葡萄酒同样的热情。如果你有其他的酒单的建议,都属于这一类,请分享在评论!博狗世界杯投注

葡萄酒,棒球和投资

Posted by|张贴在走出玻璃|Posted on 03-13-2012

In third grade, I was the only girl in the Baseball Card Collectors Lunch Bunch Club. I had a shoebox full of Topps and Donruss, and I would obsessively consult my outdated Beckett book before deciding whether to pony up, say, my mint condition Sandy Alomar Jr. card for a rookie year Cecil Fielder.

Baseball card collecting was fun, mostly because there were a ton of different factors to consider before investing in a trade. Sure, you have to start with the book value. But was Sandy having a good season? (Meduim-good.) How would that affect the card’s future value? (I was only 8.) How many Cecil Fielders did I already have in my shoebox? (One.) Did I think Sandy Alomar Jr. was the greatest thing to happen to Cleveland since the river caught on fire? (Yes.)

作为一个成年人,我来组装我的棒球卡收集的经验最近一直在购买葡萄酒。这不是太过分了到1982年拉图堡的情况比作米基曼特尔新秀卡 - 无论是通过书呆子爱好者梦寐以求的,成本方式更多现在比他们在1982年所做的,有一个看似无限转售的潜力。

在经济学发言,这些特质的商品被称为“凡勃伦商品。”凡勃伦商品项目,其需求的增长,随着价格的上涨,这种情况是非常反直觉的。优质葡萄酒进入凡勃伦良好的过渡开始,当人们停止购买它作为一种饮料,并开始在酒“投资”作为转售商品。二级葡萄酒市场在上世纪70年代和80年代发生爆炸,以及一些第一增长波尔多实际上已经胜过像黄金和白银更多的传统商品。

I’ve been thinking about wine investment a lot since Robert Parker released his orgy of 100-point ratings for the 2009 vintage. His scores appear to have added even more value to an already expensive vintage, and wine prices have risen sharply as a result. If these 100-point wines are truly Veblen goods, demand will only continue to grow stronger as prices rise, and a single man’s influence will have lead to a vicious cycle of wine price inflation: the much-maligned Parker Effect.阅读这个条目剩下»

葡萄酒#2大世界:南苏丹

Posted by|张贴在Wine Where?|发表于2012年2月3日

A flag-raising ceremony at the new Embassy of South Sudan. Uploaded to flickr by ENOUGH Project.

欢迎回到酒的大世界!此安装将探索地球,南苏丹上最新的国家的风土。首先,一些相关的背景资料,然后我们会得到酒。

From the introduction ofSharia在1983年的法律,直到2005年的和平协定,藏酒在苏丹受到法律的罪行受到惩罚。按照英国广播公司,肇事者通常鞭打。

2011年的全民公决中批准分离苏丹分为两个国家,在北部很大程度上穆斯林人口和南部异构非穆斯林人口。

Severed from the richer North, South Sudan is extremely poor and underdeveloped. Now drinking is legal, but little alcohol is commercially produced in the country.阅读这个条目剩下»

Wide World of Wine #1: The DRC

Posted by|张贴在Wine Where?|发表于2011年12月7日

通过t.pcox上传到Flicr

在过去的六个月里,我已经看到了一些我以前的同学,包括一些亲密的朋友,脱下来的人住在非常困难的地方。

两年前,我们在图书馆度过我们的日子和我们的夜晚喝廉价酒在博洛尼亚的osterie。现在,这些同样的人在像刚果民主共和国,阿富汗和苏丹南部的地方工作的非政府组织,政府机构和国际组织。

Knowing how much these friends enjoy their wine, I was curious to learn how they were coping with their new surroundings: how do you unwind after a long day’s work in places that have been ravaged by war, civil unrest, and a severe lack of resources? So I sent them each a set of questions to give me a better idea of their new lives and habits.

我收到了一些非常有趣的,意想不到的响应。事实上,他们是如此有趣,所以我们决定开始对Terroirist一系列新的被称为“葡萄酒的广阔的世界。”每个安装则需要我们通过oenophile眼中的新位置的虚拟之旅。

我们的第一站将是布卡武,刚果民主共和国(DRC).阅读这个条目剩下»

Book Review: The Drops of God

Posted by|张贴在Book Reviews|Posted on 11-17-2011

神滴,日本图形新颖(或manga) that took Asia by storm when it was first published in 2004, has finally been released in English.

该书描述了神崎雫,葡萄酒评论家的反叛儿子,谁必须完成一项艰巨的一套酒相关的任务,以确保他的遗产的冒险。一个恶略巨星葡萄酒评论家谁必须雫的权利的房地产竞争 - 为了使问题复杂化,雫的父亲在临终前采取了第二个儿子。

What follows is an amusing mix of Japanese kitsch and beautifully rendered wine descriptions. In a sip of 2001 Château Mont Perat, Shizuku finds Freddy Mercury:

“这是强大的,”他说酒“,但它也是抓住你措手不及具有如融化的甜味,用酸性回味。这就像皇后主唱,甜,赫斯基,在厚厚的吉他即兴和重鼓笼罩的声音。”

The authors, a brother and sister team writing under the nom de plume Tadashi Agi, endeavor to create links between wine tasting and more familiar experiences. Hyperbole aside, the authors manage to conjure a version of wine that is intensely personal, yet widely comprehensible.

Flowery metaphors are counterbalanced by a fair bit of instruction in technical wine history, vocabulary, and viticulture. For example, one of Shizuku’s adventures traces the legacy of one of Burgundy’s most influential terroirists,亨利·贾耶, by mapping the degree of his influence in the wines of his students, relatives, and friends.

It is precisely this balance of imaginative storytelling and technical material that makes “The Drops of God” a refreshing departure from your typical wine reading. It is an accessible, if slightly exhausting story that expertly blends instruction with entertainment.

虽然它可能会在美国葡萄酒市场的影响力较小比它在亚洲,神滴is a worthwhile read, particularly for those who can enjoy their wine with a grain of salt.

Penedès Region to Divide into Six

Posted by|张贴在118bet金博宝app |发表于2011年11月3日

通过VRoig上传到Flickr

Last week, Josep Maria Albet i Noya, the newly elected President of the Penedès DO Council, set the wheels in motion to divide the Penedès region into six sub regions: Garraf, Ordal, Alt Penedès, Central Valley A, Central Valley B, and a sixth yet to be decided.

在一个recent articleon Decanter.com, Albet argues that the current label of origin system doesn’t do enough to showcase and demarcate the distinct climates, terrains, and soil types within the growing region.

As he explained, “We have two mountain ranges and a valley through the middle of the Penedès region, which results in many microclimates and soil compositions. Because of this diversity in the landscape, the Penedès region has five or six subzones that produce very different wines.”

An abundance of bureaucratic red tape means that this undertaking could last more than two years, which begs the question: Will it be worth the cost in time and money?

在这种情况下,我是说 - 这将是在质量和多样性是Penedès的葡萄酒已经看到在过去的几十年里崛起的认可。运行中的磨静脉丰盈限制了Penedès的在国际葡萄酒市场的吸引力。这一区域的重新配置将使雄心勃勃的生产商从群众中脱颖而出的机会。

While Penedès has some shining stars, it isn’t (and never will be) Champagne. Yet two of my favorite producers, Huguet and Raventos i Blanc, make complex, affordable, terroir-focused wines, but get little recognition internationally. These top-tier producers have shown that there is room for improvement for Cava.

In the best case scenario, consumers would use the Penedès overhaul as an occasion to re-examine its wines, and producers would take the opportunity to make improvements, innovations and to re-think Cava’s potential. Maybe they can even变化埃里克·阿西莫夫的心灵!