书评:缪萨尔庄园:葡萄酒图标的故事,由苏珊·基维尔编辑

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|Posted on 08-19-2020

I find it curious that the regions that gave birth to wine are today so lacking in world renown for their wine. Lebanon and its Chateau Musar seem to be the exception. The Académie du Vin has just put out a beautiful volume,Chateau Musar: The Story of a Wine Icon,关于酒庄的历史和它的拥有者,该Hochar家庭(发音ho-shar,as I learned). Front and center, of course, is Serge Hochar, the dynamic family figurehead who has inspired so many with his charm and chameleon,terroir-driven wines.

Chateau Musar由加斯顿Hochar老,谁爱酒下降,而在巴黎学习医学,最终从事业转移到一个在黎巴嫩酿酒师成立于1930年。孩子们紧随其后,他们兄弟塞尔和罗纳德,谁就能继承家族企业之一。塞尔将研究在波尔多大学酿酒和接管在1959年罗纳德 - 实际配重从他的父亲酿酒职责塞尔的不断魅力,把金融万物的所有权。

但如何裁判的任何酒厂在土地生存uses to be at peace? “People fought their wars on our land” is Serge’s assessment of it all: the wars and constant tensions to which the Hochars have sadly become accustomed. All they’ve ever wanted is to make wine worthy of the country they love, despite (and maybe even a bitfor) its irascibility. And they have done just that, failing to produce wine just once (1976) in the Chateau’s ninety-year history.

As the book details, the Hochars and their team often risked their lives to make wine: pickers picking grapes beneath artillery and gunfire from dug-in militias; Serge, on several occasions, somehow avoiding execution checkpoints (where “the wrong last name or accent” could mean death) on the road from the Musar vineyards in the Beka’a Valley to the winery in Ghazir; and the time Serge arrived at the winery just moments before two rockets hit the road on which he had just been driving.

通过几十年来,经历了这么多很真实danger, it’s Chateau Musar’s longevity that’s most astonishing.

当时间在黎巴嫩很艰苦,因为他们往往是,塞尔和罗纳德是聪明足以寻找市场的其他地方。(和明智的,足以将他们的家庭走出国门!)伦敦是其中的势头确实有所回升,与Hochars坚持举办促销品尝自己,知道他们单独(尤其是塞尔日)可能吸引葡萄酒买家的故事,他们的葡萄酒。今天缪萨尔庄园在70个国家销售全世界证明了他们的辛勤工作,并坦言对酒厂的令人难以置信的故事。

家庭、黎巴嫩和酒就是hocharare about. With Serge gone (tragically, he drowned in the Mexico sea on New Years Eve 2014), the mantle has been taken up by Serge’s sons, Gaston and Marc, and Ronald’s son, Ralph. Family businesses don’t always survive generational hand offs, but Chateau Musar is looking to do so once again, and looks to be in good hands with these passionate, driven three.

其实,我在这本书中了解到尽可能多的关于黎巴嫩和我一样的家庭Hochar。这是唯一合适。缪萨尔庄园根本无法从它的文化和地缘政治背景中分离出来。我的好奇心,也已经引起了,因为我现在会在寻找一瓶Musar白葡萄酒塞尔的执意送达his红魔-A的交融Obaideh和Merwah,2种品种我从来没有尝试过。

下一次,我喝了Musar,我会觉得它是从哪里来的土地和人民谁也不敢做出来。

My Recommendation
这是一个完美的葡萄酒爱好者的咖啡桌书籍。该卷装帧精美,充满了美丽的照片。我读它从头到尾和喜爱它;但实践上来说,我认为它会以人大多为一个漂亮的书,通过坐在桌子供客人大拇指。

书评:葡萄酒女孩维多利亚詹姆斯

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|Posted on 03-18-2020

Wine Girl,Victoria James has taken a blacklight to the bedsheet of somm life. A gritty, gripping autobiography of an incredibly resilient and gifted woman forging her own path very much despite circumstance, it’s arrived at exactly the right cultural moment. James pulls no punches, laying bare the traumas of her life, including episodes of sexual assault, and succeeds in delivering a book terrifying (in its truth) and inspiring all at once.

詹姆斯,他的声名鹊起正在美国最年轻的侍酒师,需要我们通过她的故事,从童年到她的二十年代末(她现在29,如果我的数学是正确的)。她的家庭生活是动荡的:她的父亲操纵和控制每个人都和她的母亲太郁闷了成为一个母亲。在一个点上,詹姆斯被迫挺身而出,发挥家长对她的两个兄妹,其中很明显的,她的珍宝。但最终,她需要一种逃避,并在13岁时,她找到了一份工作作为一个服务员。

最冷,难以阅读一刻到来时,詹姆斯·股权她是如何被强奸,15日,由顾客经常光顾谁,她工作的餐馆。没有任何东西,从回避客场Wine Girl

While she didn’t find a safe haven in the restaurant industry, James did find purpose, a sense of belonging, and some coworker-mentors to learn from along the way.

她最终开发了葡萄酒的兴趣,特别是其携带的位置感的能力,并开始服用葡萄酒学校课程。讽刺的是,她在童年的创伤过程中获得的技能竟然是她需要成为一个优秀的调酒师确切的技能:良好的职业道德,以保持信息,让别人快乐的渴望一种超自然能力,以及能力茁壮成长和自我激活以下从别人一点鼓励。21岁的詹姆斯赢得了她从主侍酒师的法院认证的侍酒师引脚。

就像许多书籍,deglamorize酿酒师的生活,Wine Girlexposes the realities of being a sommelier. What I didn’t expect, and what will take most readers aback, is the level of abuse James has endured in her young career. And she talks about it so nonchalantly, as if numb after years of just gutting things out. Some of the stories struck me as particularly egregious, even criminal. Like the time she was tricked into drinking roofied wine by a table of rowdy cowboys, or when a notable master somm (she doesn’t say who) slaps her backside at an event.Wine Girlsometimes feels like an endless sequence of men acting like children and abusing their positions of power. The lion’s share of the blame, in my view, falls on the managers and coworkers who turned a blind eye to James’s plight.

Wine Girlis a reminder that there’s brokenness everywhere—making James’s perseverance stand out as that much more incredible. She never let bitterness consume her. She was cracked by the cruelty and selfishness of so many, but never shattered. And in the end, she finds forgiveness and hope for redemption.

My recommendation
我怀疑很多人会做了一本书叫Wine Girltheir first choice. That’s a shame, because men, especially men in the food and wine industries, need to hear James’s story. On top of the eye-opening, “wow, I never knew” aspect, it’s just a good, attention-keeping read—for women too, of course.

Book Review: Volcanoes and Wine: From Pompeii to Napa, by Charles Frankel

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|Posted on 02-25-2020

“Why is there such a magic alliance between volcanoes and wine?” Geologist Charles Frankel goes looking for answers inVolcanoes and Wine,blending history, geology, and viniculture in an illuminating tour of some of the most curious winegrowing locales on earth.

Across eight chapters, Frankel covers several volcanoes of consequence to wine. Each chapter follows a similar construction, beginning with a general history and then moving on to volcanic history and the specifics of how the grapes are grown and the wine is made. Frankel also provides breakdowns of key varieties, cultivars, and producers, as well as detailed travel advice for ambitious readers who wish to visit.

纳帕,俄勒冈州和夏威夷例外,这本书完全是欧洲,意大利,家里安装座火山和维苏威火山和火山伊奥利亚群岛,获得最多的爱。这是否是弗兰克尔只是写什么,他知道和他游历,或欧洲真正拥有音符的唯一火山于葡萄种植,我也希望看到一个更全局观的产物。

I was most captivated by Spain’s Canary Islands, located off the coast of northwestern Africa. There, on the island of Tenerife, you’ll find 12,280 foot Mount Teide (last eruption: 1909) and the highest vineyards in Europe at 5,800 feet. On the island of Lanzarote, vines are grown in bowl-shaped dugouts with stones lining the rim. This technique, developed in the eighteenth century by enterprising villagers looking for fertile soil beneath post-eruption ash, affords the vines protection from the wind and traps what little rain falls on the island each year.

I continue to be fascinated by the feats of those who stubbornly insist on making wine wherever they want.

不过,固执可以是令人钦佩的或愚蠢的,I’ve often wondered why people choose to live in places prone to natural disasters. (But I guess I’m talking more about hurricanes and tornadoes, which are annual threats, unlike volcanoes.)

有明确一些有意义的事情(和值得冒这个险)生活在火山的阴影,因为在整个历史,人们再次返回时间和时间,这些脾气暴躁的山,在他们的土壤装瓶不可思议的味道潜在背水战的山坡上。就拿近维苏威火山的Fuocomuorto地产的Olivieros,例如。他们的葡萄树种植于1780之上,从1631熔岩流,被遗弃在1906年后爆发泥石流后,然后在2006年复活。

还看男人的方式和女人都打回防埃特纳火山是欧洲最活跃的火山。1669年,一个名叫迭戈帕帕拉多牧师带领五十人企图转移前进的熔岩流用镐头和铁棍武装。他们就成功了,如果不是因为来自邻村,这已经进入了分流熔岩流,谁跑不送棍棒和干草叉的路径一群愤怒的暴徒。1983年,一个失败的尝试由地方官员和火山学家用炸药将重新路由熔岩流。并于1993年当局成功驯服与岩石(形成为坝66英尺高),炸药的组合的缓慢移动的熔岩流,和8000个混凝土块下降了直升机。

Volcanoes and Wine肯定会激起你的想象力。它也将风扇您癖。这既是因为它展示了酒流异国情调的地方,并因为有品味的唯一途径就是旅游。你不会找到在Costco的这些葡萄酒。

My recommendation
Frankel’s book is well-researched, with the right blend of history, science, and wine. He did lose me a couple times, wandering off to other topics like coffee growing in Hawaii, but all in all, it’s a fun flyover of volcanic wine, with some really cool history and stories thrown in. Wine-drinking history buffs, this is your book.

Book Review: Wine Reads: A Literary Anthology of Wine Writing, edited by Jay McInerney

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|Posted on 04-23-2019

封面我读了关于酒那么多书,但很少有我称之为“文学”。同Wine Reads,Jay McInerney has skillfully brought together selections from some of the finest pieces of wine writing, both fiction and nonfiction, many of which I’ve never even heard of.

After reading cover to cover, I certainly agree that each of the selected works possesses something—“superior or lasting artistic merit,” according to Google—that elevates it into the realm of the literary.

As you’d expect, McInerney includes classics like Kermit Lynch’sAdventures on the Wine Route和乔治·泰伯Judgment of Paris。It’s great to revisit these foundational pieces of wine literature, but what I most enjoyed were the lesser-knowns, like Roald Dahl’s fun short story “Taste” and especially a 2015 essay that appeared in耶鲁评论called “My Father and The Wine,” by scholar and writer Irina Dumitrescu.

杜米特雷斯库涉及她从头开始在罗马尼亚移民家庭长大,酿酒和其他那么多的回忆。穿插是诚实的时刻捕捉她的家人的动态,和我想我有我自己的孩子关系,有一天影子。我喜欢这一点的最好:“他们希望在虹吸软管和口味无论你的味道吸。他们会笑,嫌自己的嘴唇和向你保证,酒是非常好的。当你离开地窖,他们将坚持开展瓶子到餐桌“。

I adored journalist A.J. Liebling’s “Just Enough Money,” where he argues that poverty lends itself to a special appreciation of food, and thus great food writing. The wealthy, on the other hand, tend to indulge and oversaturate because money allows. It’s “the crippling handicap of affluence.” There’s also a five-page piece from author, poet, andbon vivant吉姆·哈里森被称为“葡萄酒”。这是完全离奇,但我狼吞虎咽地吃它。

On the fiction side of things, there’s of course a chapter from Rex Pickett’s侧身,as well as something from Michael Dibdin’sA Long Finish在奥雷利奥禅犯罪系列小说。

Wine Reads包含所有27的选择,运行话题的色域:在蒙达维吐口水,纳粹占领的香槟,以及藤破坏的罗曼尼 - 康帝,仅举几例了。这是一本书,你可以零碎阅读或覆盖到覆盖;虽然我更喜欢后者,因为它可以让你看到什么思想和人才的巨大差异有葡萄酒写作的世界。

My Recommendation
I’ve ditched my葡萄酒鉴赏家subscription. This is the kind of wine writing I want to read, the kind with literary flair.Wine Readsis for those of us who tend to find themselves with a glass in one hand and Henry James in the other.

Book Review: Lucky Country: Confessions of a Vagabond Cellarhand, by Darren Delmore

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|发表于2019年4月1日

Lucky Country CoverLucky Countryis the second installment in Darren Delmore’s nonfiction series一个流浪汉Cellarhand的自白。(我回顾了第一,从到藤back in 2017像它的前身。)Lucky Countryis an unvarnished look at cellarhand life during harvest, replete with ubiquitous and unabashed hedonism. Yet somehow, once again, Delmore plays it off without being overly gratuitous, and does great work in illustrating a parallel between the messiness of winemaking and that of human relationship itself.

Lucky Countrypicks up in February 2010 with Darren on his way to Australia on a harvest contract with Two Hands, escaping both a sexual fling that’s starting to smell of commitment and the sour way his work at Hirsch Vineyards had ended. His journey nearly ends before it starts, at the hands of a prying Australian customs agent. But somehow Darren is able to talk his way out of trouble, despite not having a proper work visa and looking like an unshaven vagrant who’s just Cookie-Monstered several handfuls of pot cookies on the flight over—which, in reality, he had.

该行动从那里直线前进。达伦到达两只手,准备工作。他学会地窖有细微差别,满足有趣的字符的字符串。我最喜欢的是达伦的室友邓肯,谁我来讨厌他mooching和小气的方式。绝望省钱,邓肯诉诸吃谷物每顿饭(直译),但有没有问题采取更多比他通过别人分享打开瓶子的部分。

After four-or-so months, and the mishaps and drama that inevitably follow from overconsumption, drug use, and close proximity to so many interesting and complex individuals—and for that matter, from juggling flings with several alluring women—work comes to an end and Darren heads back to California for a short break before the harvest season there.

像第一本书在系列,Lucky Countrydid an admirable job of transporting me into this snippet of time in the life of someone very different from myself. And yet, we find common ground in our passion for wine.

On a personal note, my wife and I happened to be passing through Paso Robles on vacation last week, and thanks to a bit of serendipity we were able to meet up with Darren. He graciously offered to let us taste through four barrels of his wine, his second commercial vintage, each about 100 cases. He rents space atONX Wines在锡市,使黑比诺和寒冷气候下的西拉的名字命名的品牌,Delmore。我发现这两个平易近人,平衡,并显着独一无二的。我从来没有过西拉说闻到太像了一把新鲜的泥土,也没有填充有这么多的蓝莓紫的颜色,一杯黑。他有一个邮件列表,并有更多的信息对他网站

My Recommendation
Lucky Countryis entertaining, funny, and real. What more can you ask of a book? It’s a quick read at only 166 pages and I’d say pick it up for any weekend perambulations in wine country. I look forward to the next installment in Darren’s wine-soaked adventures!

书评:红葡萄酒:综合指南50个基本品种和款式,由凯文·茨罗尔利,迈克·德西蒙,杰夫Jenssen

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|发表于二零一八年十二月十七日

Red Wine我对凯文·茨罗尔利即将传记的复制请求,显然为时过早,因此出版商送我Red Wineinstead. I hadn’t heard of it, but after poring through it in five- and ten-page sittings, I see why every wine bibber needs to.

Red Winecovers the basics of the 50 red wines you’re most likely to encounter. Full of beautiful photography and with just the right amount of detail, it might be the most practical coffee table book a wine lover can own.

按字母顺序排列,每一颗葡萄获得两页的蔓延,赤霞珠,西拉,和其他BIGGIES的例外,它得到的更多。首先,葡萄的名字被列拼写和发音上,一个对我们这些谁不能完全得到像葡萄的Montepulciano的发音正确的巨大祝福(这是MOHN-teh-pool-CHAH-no) and Sangiovese (SAHN-jo-VAY-say).

Next is a tasting profile highlighting the grape’s most common aromas and flavors, followed by a list of ideal food pairings. You’ll want these handy for your next dinner party. Or maybe you flat out want some specific wine recommendations. Zraly and team have you covered with suggestions for “Bargain,” “Value,” “Special Occasion,” and “Splurge” bottles.

Rounding out each chapter are a few paragraphs of abbreviated history, a bit on what’s noteworthy about the grape, and finally, where in the world it’s currently being grown in significant amounts.

What I love aboutRed Wine是它是如此混账得心应手。餐前-了研究,决定下一步,甚至在自己家里酿酒大家参观葡萄酒产区:我可以自己用它在各种情况下看到的。几周前实际上,在决定是否在诱导洛迪娇小西拉和佳利酿我的批次乳酸发酵的地下室发酵,我第一次转身Red Wineto get a sense of each variety’s typical level of acidity. (We’ll see how that turns out though!)

Red Winecovers key wine styles and regions too. Read these sections and you’ll never again refer to Rioja or Chianti as a grape, and you’ll better understand what constitutes a Super Tuscan (spoiler: it’s kind of a catch-all).

My Recommendation
Some books I read and pass along.Red Wineis one I’ll keep around. It’ll probably find a home on the kitchen shelf next to my cookbooks and drink tomes. Much like Zraly’s窗户世界,这是一本书,每一个认真的酒量应该手头上,以供参考,寻找灵感,和纯粹的视觉享受。

书评:有限公司rkscrew, by Peter Stafford-Bow

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|Posted on 11-26-2018

51tP9E8lxeL._SX311_BO1,204,203,200_螺旋形的is a rollicking page-turner about a quick-witted womanizer named Felix Hart, whose bawdy, booze-filled escapades propel him up the ranks of the UK wine industry. The dialogue is tight and idiomatic, the characters have flesh, and the situations Felix finds himself in are unique to say the least.

还有与恶性通奸鸵鸟的一包追逐场景;毛茸茸的雌雄同体的粉末状药物方士人费利克斯将辉耀;一组谁从来不使用吐桶虐待狂主侍酒师的;并通过污水池死亡。

Yea, Peter Stafford-Bow has quite an imagination.

这个故事与Felix开始在一间审讯室。他是非常糟糕干了点什么。我们不知道是什么。由于他的审讯他摁,菲利克斯给他们(和我们)整个故事。

获得在当地的葡萄酒专卖店开始了,当他地强迫死亡臭名昭著的窃贼谁是被恐吓当地的商店Felix的职业生涯起飞。他把演出作为葡萄酒买家和喉关保加利亚,意大利和南非,在那里他协商交易,喝了很多,和魅力的女性络绎不绝。

I did find it a little too convenient that every wine merchant Felix encounters happens to be a good-looking girl who instantly wants to take him to bed, or exchange sex for wine perks. It does, however, give Stafford-Bow endless opportunity to deploy his considerable talent for euphemism.

在南非,菲利克斯符合故事最有趣的人物之一,WIKUS面包车Blerk,偏心而备受追捧的酿酒师。WIKUS是一个自以为是圣人谁拥有的视图上的一切根深蒂固的点,像螺丝帽的软木塞上的优势或葡萄酒过滤的亵渎。“谁过滤他的酒酿酒师就像是一个窃贼偷家当”。

WIKUS的“持枪非洲”伙伴Njongo提供什么是对我来说最痛苦的时刻在小说中,它的点头地理的特殊性和酒的转变本质。他们三人都出去狩猎,烧的WIKUS葡萄酒刚宰杀的游戏和饮料瓶。“我品尝的星星,”云没有隐藏的暗设拉子”的Njongo说。非洲大地,抚摸着藤蔓。远处雨的承诺。豹的气息“。

“这是一个非洲的品酒笔记,” WIKUS说,“这就是为什么,当我走Njongo将继承我的财产!”

On more than one occasion,螺旋形的reminded me of Saul Bellow’sHenderson the Rain King。It think because both novels blend absurdity and poignancy—or maybe simply because Felix, like Henderson, visits Africa.

I don’t want to give away too many of the novel’s best moments, but I will say that螺旋形的isn’t merely a series of random, disconnected happenings. Events build upon each other, as Felix gets himself into some real binds with the law and organized crime—the central dilemma concerns a large, conspicuously-low-priced shipment of Asti Spumante—and the draw for the reader is seeing how he wiggles out.

My Recommendation
螺旋形的is a bit too crude at times for my liking. That said, there were moments when I actually laughed out loud. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for an easy read full of lasciviousness and wine (a la侧身,我会说),特别是那些对“厚脸皮”的英式幽默倾斜。

Book Review: Godforsaken Grapes by Jason Wilson

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|发表于2018年7月5日

Godforsaken_Grapes_By_Jason_WilsonMany wine nerds have likely heard a similar statistic: about 80% of the world’s wine comes from about 20 grapes. Meanwhile, planet Earth boasts some 1,400 grape varieties used in winemaking, which means there is a whole lot of “obscure” wine out there. Since I’ve been paying close attention to wine, for about a dozen years now, I’ve seen a huge uptick in excitement about wines like Mtsvane from Georgia, Trousseau from Jura, orange wines from Slovenia, etc. Even though I’m still totally happy sipping California Chardonnay, I think this increased attention on lesser known wines has been extremely positive in many ways.

In his new book, “Godforsaken Grapes:一个有点东倒西歪之旅通过奇怪的,朦胧的世界,和怀才不遇酒,”费城的贾森·威尔逊深挖掘成为世界葡萄酒的另外20%。重点烈酒和鸡尾酒为他的生活后,威尔逊抓住了酒怪胎错误不好的情况下,很快就开始前往奥地利,瑞士,意大利东北部等地区,寻找模糊的葡萄酒和有趣的人谁使他们活。

In an interview with Wine Enthusiast威尔逊说,这对他的背后写这本书的动机:“这本书是非常个人化的,在我的30年代后期和40年代与酒我自己成长的痴迷处理。我想写当一个下降了兔子洞进入严重geekdom会发生什么。我还看到一个更大的故事。葡萄酒行业正在经历一个巨大的翻天覆地的变化和某些类型的“严重的葡萄酒评论家”的影响在减弱。我想捕捉这一刻。”

该title of the book was taken from a now infamous screed posted by Robert Parker in 2014, in which he complained that a younger generation of wine-lovers (which he called a “group of absolutists”) was engaging in, “near-complete rejection of some of the finest grapes and the wines they produce. Instead they espouse, with enormous gusto and noise, grapes and wines that are virtually unknown.” These “godforsaken grapes” (like Trousseau, Savagnin, Blaufränkisch and others), Parker decreed, made wines that were “rarely palatable.”

很多人被帕克的后发威,但我记得感觉有点难过。这让我想起一个老metalhead的咆哮着如何带这些天不要让音乐像他们习惯了。等等等等等等。这种思维还设置了一个错误的二分法,点什么威尔逊所说的“严重的葡萄酒”反对“晦涩”或“天然”或“怪异”的葡萄酒。我从来没有觉得有必要挑选斗争中的一面 - 纳帕出租车都很大,所以从上阿迪杰Schiava。这个世界的一切足够大。是不是有足够的部落世界了吗?这只是酒 - 对吗?Read the rest of this entry »

Book Review: Tasting the Past, by Kevin Begos

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|Posted on 07-02-2018

Tasting the Past - Book CoverThis book wouldn’t exist had Begos not found himself bored in a hotel room in Jordan. Reaching for a bottle from the minibar, he encounteredCremisan Cellars,and sparked a journey that has culminated in品尝了过去:风味的科学与用于葡萄酒的起源搜索

Begos documents his visits to some of the oldest wine sites in Europe and the Middle East, searching for (but as you’d expect, not conclusively finding) the origins of wine. Along the way he encounters experts, scientists, and passionate winemakers who, each in their own way, are seeking to discover and experience wine in its most ancient forms.

曾任麻省理工学院Knight科学新闻研究员,Begos做了出色的工作惊人的旅行写作,历史,科学,科学之间的平衡,值得庆幸的是,是不是太沉重递。我最欣赏的,但是,是他不懈的好奇心。

Begos could not shake his desire to learn more about Cremisan’s unusual grapes (Baladi, Jandali, Hamdani) and to understand why, in a world full of thousands of wine grape varieties, each suited to its particular clime, we have limited ourselves to just a handful. Most of it is market driven, of course, but Begos laments how we’ve “rammed the famous [i.e., French] varieties” into so many unsuitable habitats.

A recurring theme in the book is the friction between nature and viniculture: what the vine desires to do and what man makes it do. It’s actually what I found most compelling. For instance, I was surprised to learn (so was Begos, when Swiss grape geneticist Dr. José Vouillamoz told him) that “if you plant the seeds from any grape … the new vine will have different flavors and characteristics.” It seems obvious, until you realize what this actually means, that the varietals familiar to us today have all been propagated through the centuries bycuttings alone

How had I not known this?

以赤霞珠。这是在法国西南部天生一对“葡萄园的恋情,”因为Begos的话来说,长相思(是的,白葡萄)和品丽珠,200-300之间年前。卡罗尔·梅勒迪斯,加州大学戴维斯分校植物遗传学家,把它简单地说:“一个单一的花粉落在一朵花和一粒种子成长为一个单一的设备。世界各地的每一个赤霞珠葡萄树来源于此一个原藤“。

作法of modern winemaking is to “lock in the tastes but shut down any evolution,” says Begos. But this desire for vinicultural consistency comes at a price.

Because today’s most popular wine grapes exist in a state of arrested evolution, they’re particularly susceptible to pandemic disease (which is what happened during the Irish Potato Famine). Climate change, too, will increasingly come negatively to bear on a world full of vines that have been artificially kept from adapting and evolving. For winegrowers, if Begos’s experts are right, it looks to be a losing battle.

这里的一线希望是新鲜事物。存在the possibility for entirely new varietals with new flavors—flavors not merely coaxed out of existing varietals by the next great winemaking process innovation, but flavors born organically of seed and soil. A few winemakers are already on it, says Begos.

Tasting the Pastis a rallying cry for the obscure grape and for regional particularity. I’m on board with that. There’s a great big world out there beyond the French grape.

My Recommendation
有这么多的包含在伟大的故事和人物Tasting the Past’s 250 or so pages, and Begos’s journalistic style keeps it all moving. I liked, too, that each chapter concludes with information on how to obtain the wines he discusses (although some are unattainable outside of the wineries themselves). Anyone who wants to know what else is out there, beyond even what your local Total Wine can supply, will want to read this book. Those with a bent toward wine history, paleobotany, or grape genetics will be especially pleased.

Wine Book Reviews: The Wandering Vine

Posted by|Posted inBook Reviews|Posted on 06-16-2018

9781472938442It’s hard to imagine what the “Old World” wine maps would look like today had the Roman Empire never existed. So many lives, cultures, religions, and independent groups of people were crushed under the heel of Rome — but vineyards and wine spread out to almost all corners of Rome’s reach.

为了弥补罗马帝国统治的葡萄园扩张的整个历史将是一个艰巨的任务,并在重读取可能的结果。幸运的是,尼娜卡普兰的旅游和酒回忆录“天涯葡萄:酒,罗马和我”,是一种快乐阅读。

在引进,卡普兰说,她的目标是跟踪入乡随俗,“从英国回到法国,西班牙和意大利的路径...试图了解他们是如何通过酒征服了世界,并看一些更不太可能后果那征服“。她设法熟练地编织在一起的历史和现代葡萄酒的故事。卡普兰从她的家英国香槟旅行,勃艮第,罗纳,普罗旺斯。她涵盖了大量的西班牙和意大利地区(巴塞罗那,塔拉戈纳,塞维利亚,巴勒莫,那不勒斯),并在罗马结束了。

葡萄酒的故事,喜欢故事的人,卡普兰写道,是位移的故事不断的运动和适应。“多少愚钝我们的餐桌是,如果人们和藤蔓曾经学会了仍然留!”她宣称。“如果我们足够幸运在合适的土壤发生和左和平居住的话,我们可以根自己和蓬勃发展,到所有人的利益。”Read the rest of this entry »